Kerala has much to offer the traveller – quaint hill stations, lively cities, exotic backwaters, surf and sand, wildlife adventures, ancient monuments, sacred shrines – and all within driving distance of each other. It’s hardly surprising that the state has become one of the world’s fastest-growing tourism destinations.
THE COAST
There is perhaps no single facet that has influenced the state as much as its coast. The sea has been Kerala’s friend: feeding the populace with its bounty. enriching the land with wealth made from maritime trade, bringing to the state merchants, philosophers. adventurers and refugees who have transformed its history and culture.
Strands of a long history are threaded through the surf and the sand, the coconut groves and the rocky headlands. If the palaces of Thiruvananthapuram hark back to an enlightened monarchy, the St Thomas Church and Cheraman Perumal Juma
Masjid of Kodungallur whisper of the antiquity of today’s religions. If the Bekal Fort in Kasaragod brings back memories of the conquering armies of Tipu Sultan and the British. the quiet town of Kannur is a pale shadow of the bustling port once known to ancient Greeks and Romans. And it is this rich past, combined with a vibrant contemporary ethos, and set against the stunning backdrop of beach and bay, that makes the coast of Kerala spellbinding. Today, tourists flock here to enjoy its natural beauty, discover its long history and culture, and explore its bustling cities.
BACKWATERS
Just off the shore and sometimes indistinguishable from it, clinging to the coastline like a conjoined twin. les the labyrinth of waterways that make up Kerala’s famed backwaters. Nourished by over 40 rivers, and with 29 major lakes, innumerable streams, tributaries, canals, ponds, deltas and estuaries, the backwaters are a vast interconnecting network that threads through the length and breadth of the land. These waterways are almost ubiquitous along the coast. stretching 560 kilometres down its length from Hosdurg in the north to Thiruvananthapuram in the south. and at points, separated from the sea only by slender sandbanks.
At the centre of the network le Kerala’s two largest lakes. The g the Vembanad Lake sprawls over the districts and envelops an area of about 205 square kilometres. Three large river pour their souls into the Vembanad the Periyar at Kochi, the Meenachil at Kottayam, and the Pamba, near Haripal in Alappuzha. At Kumarakom, the lake is six kilometres in width, its opposite bark out of sight, and the waves churned up by the lively winds giving the impression that one is by the sea. The second-largest lake, the Ashtamudi, covers almost one-third of Kollam town. From here, canals and lakes snake 55 square kilometres to the north. making the Ashtamudi a vital gateway to the backwaters.
HILLS AND DALES
The steep mountains, rolling hills and rambling valleys of the interiors showcase another Kerala. Towering peaks stand shrouded in mist. Waterfalls leap down rocky cliff faces. Colossal boulders hide the yawning mouths of subterranean caves. Several species of animals, even small knots of ancient tribes, roam tangled forests. Tea and coffee plantations blanket rolling slopes: rubber estates swallow up entire valleys.
The Western Ghats (or the Sahyadri Mountains) run from Gujarat in north-western India to Tamil Nadu at the country’s southern tip. In Kerala. these mountains stretch down the length of the state and guard the eastern border, like a formidable bouncer shielding the treasures of the
land from prying eyes. It is in Kerala that the Western Ghats soar to its most exalted heights: Anamudi in Western Ghats. Idukki, at 2.695 metres, is the chain’s highest peak. However, altitudes vary greatly across the range, resulting in remarkable diversity in topography, climate, flora and fauna.
Despite the Sahyadris’ forbidding visage, invaders and immigrants have found a chink in its armour: at the Palakkad Gap, a 40-kilometre break in the mountains. It is through this that Tamilians travelled to Kerala, giving birth to a community of bilingual, strictly vegetarian Brahmins in the Palakkad District, whose customs stand in intriguing contrast to the rest of the state. The Palakkad Gap was also the weak link that allowed Tipu Sultan’s army to pierce the otherwise impenetrable ramparts of the western ghats.
Another more welcome intruder is intercepted by the mountains: swollen clouds. pregnant with rain. As a result. Kerala receives the benefaction of plentiful rain, and parts of the mountains are very wet indeed. The result is an eruption of greenery: lush rainforests, verdant meadows. eucalyptus groves, clusters of silver oaks, and expanses of tall grasslands jostle for space on Kerala’s hills. The Western Ghats, in particular, is earmarked as one of the world’s Biodiversity Hotspots for its munificence of flora and fauna: nowhere is it more so than where it runs through Kerala.
FORESTS AND RESERVES
More than a fifth of the land area of Kerala is covered by tropical rainforests, semi-evergreen forests. moist deciduous forests, and small areas of dry deciduous forests on the leeward, rain-shadow side of the hills. Kerala’s forests are a storehouse of biodiversity, and most of the state’s plant and animal species are found in the eastern hills and valleys, especially in the Western Ghats. The region shelters a substantial part of the state’s
11.840 plant species, including over Almost a fourth of the state’s 900 species of medicinal plants, and almost 4.600 species of flowering plants. Most of Kerala’s 145 species of mammals. 486 species of birds. 196 species of freshwater fish. 164 species of reptiles, and 85 species of amphibians are also found in the jungles of the castern highlands,
Elephants, tigers, leopards, civets, sambar, chital, wild dogs, wild boar, squirrels, mongooses, otters, langurs, bonnet macaques and lion-tailed macaques roam the forest, cobras. vipers and pythons slither underfoot. a variety of winged creatures flit overhead. Highly endangered creatures like the Nilgiri tahr. the Travancore Evening Brown butterfly, the Indian sloth bear and many others find safe haven in Kerala’s forests.
POMP AND PAGEANTRY
There is no better occasion for Kerala’s rituals and customs to be showcased to the world than during its many festivals. Some are associated with religious events; others with local history or folklore. Rites and traditions vary across the state, and while some festivals remain largely localised, others are celebrated with fervour across the state. Whatever the occasion, come festival time, Kerala pulls out all the stops, shrugging off its customary understated, modest attire to put on a mantle of flamboyant splendour.
The Oachira Temple in Kollam has no idol or shrine. It is devoted to Parabrahmam, the Universal Consciousness. The annual festival. Oachirakali, features grand martial dances and a cattle and agricultural fair
THRISSUR POORAM
Poorams, where deities from several temples converge to celebrate, are yet another feature of Kerala’s long and dazzling festive calendar. The Thrissur Pooram, held in Medam (April-May). is the grandest of Kerala’s temple festivals, attracting spectators from all castes and creeds. The festival owes its origin to Sakthan Thampuran,
illustrious ruler of the erstwhile Cochin State, who was known for his disregard for the so-called social supremacy of the Namboodiris. It is said that Sakthan Thampuran instituted the Thrissur Pooram when the temples around Thrissur were denied entry to the largest festival in Kerala at that time, the Arattupuzha festival. by the Namboodiri chief
of the area. Sakthan Thampuran invited the sidelined temples to bring their deities to the Vadakkumnathan Temple at Thrissur, and thus the Thrissur Pooram was born.
During the 36-hour festival. 10 Devi and Sastha temples bring their deities to Thrissur atop richly caparisoned elephants, accompanied by a galaxy of musical maestros and throngs of bedazzled spectators. Traditionally, two groups that represent the geographic divisions of Thrissur, from the Thiruvambadi and Paramekkavu temples, try to outdo each other in their festive displays. And there is no better arena for the friendly tussle than a bewitching spectacle called the kudamattom
Kalarippayattu
The military tradition of the Malayali warrior classes gave rise to several martial arts. Many have fallen by the wayside, some have died out, but Kalarippayattu continues to thrive.
The martial art of Kalarippayattu is believed to have originated between the ninth and 12th centuries, making at the oldest surviving martial art in the world. In ancient times, there was a kalort (an earthen floor or walled carthen pit covered by a thatched roof. which served as a training centre) in every village, presided over by a guru. Both boys and girls were initiated into the training exercises of Kalarippayattu. While girls trained at the kalari mainly
The true maestros of the art went on to serve as warriors of the ruling monarchs.
Kalarippayattu may have lost its relevance in war, but kafaris continue to train new generations of martial artists. Kalarippayattu troupes perform at festivals, such as during the Mandalam season in November December, and travel the globe, displaying their skills Modern-day choreographers have even incorporated Kalarippayattu into their compositions.
Like everything in Kerala. Kalarippayattu is enfolded in a stole of customs and rituals. Gods are believed to be watching over the halari, be to improve and maintain physical it Bhadrakali or Shiva-Shakti int condition, the more talented amongst a Hindu kalari, Allah in a Muslim the lads graduated to advanced courses alert, or Jesus in a Christian halart Sanctification rituals for the laburi and chekers, assigned with the responsibility Initiation ceremonies for the students of fighting duels to settle disputes. precede training cycles.
AYURVEDA
Besides its great natural beauty, the healing promise of Ayurveda has been the single biggest factor that has drawn people from around the globe to the tiny sylvan corner of Kerala. Such is the faith of locals in this alternative system of medicine, that medical courses are devoted to it, and colleges and hospitals have been instituted to propound its principles.
Although Ayurveda is practised throughout India, Kerala has become a mascot for this holistic science. The state’s premier status is thanks in part to its scholastic tradition in Sanskrit. which has ensured the correct interpretation of ancient Ayurvedic texts. Besides, Kerala has access to an unsurpassed treasure of herbs, said to be unparalleled in their potency. which thrive in the lofty peaks of the Western Ghats of the state and in the Agasthyakoodam mountains near Thiruvananthapuram.
Ayurveda is said to have been bestowed on Kerala by the gods themselves. After Parasurama had reclaimed a virgin land from the sea for the Brahmins to live in, he is believed to have chosen eight families to whom he imparted the knowledge of Ayurveda. These eight clans are said to be the ancestors of the ashtavaidya families that practise Ayurveda in Kerala today.
Traditional architecture
The artistry of the Malayali can be seen in the state’s buildings. breathtaking ballads in stone and wood. It is here that scientific principle meets functional design. and artistic imagery converges with impeccable craftsmanship.
The nalukettu, the traditional Kerala house, is a masterpiece of simplicity and elegance. The nalukettu is made up of four blocks wrapped around a central courtyard. The house is lined all around with verandas, which lead from the courtyard into various rooms. The traditional nalukettu was built with laterite stone and plastered with lime, with sloping roofs made of thatched coconut or palmyra leaves, or tiles. Rafters, beams and pillars were made of wood, often beautifully carved.
Finely finished red oxide or black cement made up the flooring.The nalukettu was constructed in conformity with the principles of Thachu Shastra (the Science of Architecture), from the orientation of the site to the placement of the rooms. The houses of wealthy families often had multiple storeys, or an additional quadrangular wing. Even palaces were built in the nalukettu style, albeit with a lavish use of wood.
Today, modern houses have replaced the nalukettu, and concrete and steel have usurped the position of laterite and wood. But such is the charm of traditional construction. that many Malayalis are constructing homes in this ancient style. Some even use beams, rafters and doors salvaged from old nalukettus, giving them a fresh lease of life in a new home.
Cuisine
There are temples in Kerala, such as the Sree Krishna Temple at Ambalappuzha, which are as famous for the payasam that is served as prasadam as they are for their deities. Such is the importance of feasting in the state that an old saying goes, ‘Kanam vittum Onam unnanam (We must eat the Onam feast even if we have to sell our properties)’.
Malayalis have fond memories of being plied with food by grandmothers and great-aunts, and the highest praise heaped on a young maiden once was an admiring. ‘nalla thadi undu’ or ‘she’s pleasantly rotund’. Modernisation may have made the Malayali more calorie-conscious and streamlined. but the passion for food remains ingrained.
(Source : Portrait Kerala)